Golf City Guide #6 Lisbon
A capital as audacious as it is enchanting, Lisbon affords those who visit it a unique opportunity to make of it what you desire. A versatile and upbeat city, it offers historical richness, a bustling centre, and idyllic golf courses with sublime views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Lisbon has everything one could want in a European city break. The old, winding cobblestone streets and perfectly preserved medieval castles maintain a certain reverence for Portugal’s storied past, and this is complimented by its relaxed coastal culture, delicious cuisine and hedonistic nightlife, which ensures that visiting Lisbon is a truly unmissable destination. Ride around the city on the iconic yellow trams, try fresh takes on Portuguese seafood classics, sip a shot of Ginjinha from an open fronted bar, kick back on a sunset boat tour at the end of a long day of sightseeing or, indeed, a few rounds of picture-perfect golf.
The golf
While golf courses in Lisbon tend to receive less recognition than those in the Algarve, the Portuguese capital boasts a wide variety of beautiful courses from parkland to traditional links, and with summer temperatures averaging between 20-24°C the conditions are perfect for enjoyable play.
50 minutes west of Lisbon airport lies the 6,970 yards of Oitavos Dunes, ranked in the world’s top 100 golf courses and No.1 in Portugal by Golf Magazine. Lying within the Sintra and Cascais Natural Park, the Arthur Mills designed course takes full advantage of the wonderful panoramas offered by the celestial azure of the Atlantic Ocean, the hills of Sintra, and Cabo da Roca, Europe's westernmost point. The natural pine trees and sand dunes are naturally incorporated into this course which perfectly utilises the rich tapestry of this stretch of coastline.
Those looking to play on a glamorous, new golf course should look no further than Comporta Dunes. Located one hour south of Lisbon in the tranquil village of Comporta, this course was designed by Scottish golf architect David McLay-Kidd. The 38.4 hectares of land integrates Comporta's exquisite natural landscape of picturesque beaches and lush pine forests and is styled as a true Links golf experience, making it unique in Portugal. Comporta Dunes harks back to the legendary courses of McLay-Kidd’s home nation with golfers forced to reckon with the natural elements of sand, sea and breeze.
Food and drink
As well as the older establishments serving Portuguese classics, Lisbon is filled with experimental, new-wave restaurants, and bars propping up a lively nightlife scene.
The historic Chiado neighbourhood is home to the city’s shopping and theatre hub, its streets lined with densely populated pastry shops bustling with locals and tourists looking to get their hands on pastel de nata (the famous Portuguese custard tarts).
Cuisine in the city is decidedly seafood-oriented; sardines are a ubiquitous presence at every cafe and restaurant. The traditional dish consists of four to six grilled sardines served with boiled potatoes, salad and grilled peppers served with olive oil.
Head to Cantinho das Gáveas on a Bairro Alto street corner for a perfect take on this meal, as well as the best swordfish, squid and octopus. A Muralha Tasca Típica is also an excellent option as a restaurant which serves grilled fish in a more relaxed atmosphere, with the comforting ambience of their famous wine bar next door.
© Café de São Bento
© Café de São Bento
© Café de São Bento
Bacalhau à Brás, a flaked cod dish, pan-fried with potato chips and enveloped in scrambled eggs, is an essential dish to try in Lisbon. Laurentina is as good a place as any, the self-styled ‘king of cod’, who have been serving the Lisbon speciality since 1976, and so is O Poleiro, a bit further away from the main tourist areas, which also serves delicious codcakes as appetisers. The spectacular Pateo Bairro do Avillez is the perfect place to try for experimental takes on seafood dishes, the chef offering a range of plates which might nudge diners out of their comfort zone.
For those who may harbour an aversion to fish, don’t fret. Café de São Bento, located near the Parliament in the heart of Lisbon, specialise in high quality filet mignon and sirloin steak served with fries and an optional egg on top. Their signature steak serving comes with a coffee cream sauce.
Attractions
A huge part of the fabled draw of Lisbon is the variety of options it provides its visitors. The remnants of Iberian imperialism are evident throughout the capital, the paradisiacal Praia de Carcavelos beach is just a short drive or train ride away, and its vibrant shopping district is perfect for people looking to pick up the latest threads.
The Mosteiros dos Jerónimos, the grand 16th century monastery that stands on the bank of the Tagus, provides a remarkable vision of Portugal’s storied past and is the most impressive example of the late Portuguese Gothic Manueline style of architecture. Construction began on the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1501 and is adorned with characters from the Portuguese Discovery era – Infante D. Henrique guards the entrance, while inside the statue of King D. Manuel is protected by St. Jerome, next to his wife Queen D. Maria, who is herself protected by St. John The Baptist.
Lisbon also has a series of alternative and interesting museums and galleries. The Museu Nacional de Azulejo (National Tile Museum) is an art museum dedicated to the azulejo, the traditional tilework of Portugal. The National Coach Museum is located on the Alfonso de Albuquerque Square in the Belém district of Libson and has one of the finest collections of historical carriages in the world.
While you are in the historic Belém neighbourhood, be sure to check out the magnificent Belém lighthouse. Admire the striped stone and brick design as the forlorn lighthouse cuts a dignified, if slightly melancholic, figure among the splendour of Libson’s vibrant seaside architecture.