Edinburgh – Scotland’s Golfing Capital

The architecture, the history, the festivals, the Michelin-starred cuisine, the birthplace of Harry Potter; it’s not just having some of the world’s finest links on its doorstep, that makes Edinburgh such a complete experience. We take a tour of the city and some of its courses following Golf Traveller’s Edinburgh itinerary.

There are beautiful capital cities. And then there’s Edinburgh. It’s a striking mix of the old, the new, the stylish, the industrial, natural beauty and the man-made. With its celebrated arts festivals, museums and galleries, it’s one of the world’s cultural gems. As befits any capital, the shopping and dining scene is world-class.

There’s history aplenty, tourist must-sees, and even the café where J K Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book. And then, at the centre of it all, there’s a castle sitting atop a 350-million-year-old volcano. As statements go, you don’t get much more dramatic than that. “All of that and you’re within 30 minutes of the very finest links courses in the world,” declares Mark Kerr, a PGA golfer turned local businessman. “What other city has this many courses eight miles away?” He’s got a point.

There are approximately 600 courses across Scotland, around ten percent of which are in easy reach of the capital, including the likes of Dumbarnie Golf Links, Gullane Golf Club, Royal Burgess and Dalmahoy. It’s effectively a gateway for golf, a starting place from which to also venture into the golfing utopias of Fife and East Lothian.

In addition to golf, as the owner of the Canny Man’s pub, Mark is well placed to discuss Edinburgh’s traditions and attractions. “We had our 150th anniversary in September 2021,” he continues. “There are older bars in Edinburgh [the Sheep Heid Inn dates back to the 14th century] but Canny Man’s has been family owned for 150 years. I’m the fifth generation of the Kerr family to work here.”

It’s a remarkable achievement, and a remarkable pub – and the site of a private dinner under Golf Traveller’s Edinburgh itinerary. Eclectically decorated – the walls are dotted with golf memorabilia, old signs, trinkets and a moosehead, a gift from a Norwegian customer who’s still an occasional visitor – it’s evolved more than been designed, although the impressive wine list is very much Mark’s work, and the menu, like so many Scottish restaurants have done for years, has a strong focus on the celebrated Scottish larder.

The same can certainly be said of other restaurants in the itinerary, such as Amber (located at the Scotch Whisky Experience) and, at a rather more traditional level, at the Anstruther Fish Bar. Anstruther – pronounced “Ainster” – was named Best Fish and Chip Shop in Britain in 2008 and been declared best in Scotland four times. It’s located in the East Neuk of Fife, an astonishingly pretty part of the region (a tour of which also features on the itinerary), and overlooks the waters where much of the fish served is caught.

You can’t quite do that at boutique hotel Dunstane Houses, but they too share the same food philosophy. “We use mostly local suppliers we know by name,” explains owner Shirley Mowat, although their excellent Orkney smoked salmon is a notable exception. Shirley and husband Derek are both from Orkney and originally had very different plans.

“We were heading for London,” says Shirley, “but we liked Edinburgh and stayed here. It’s a unique city. It’s not too big, you can walk everywhere, and for golfers coming in you can get to so many places. We try to encourage people to stay longer, to explore, as it really opens people’s eyes when the realise how central Edinburgh is.”

The Mowats bought Dunstane Houses in 1998.Several refurbishments later, and following the purchase of a second property opposite, they’ve turned an eight room, two-star B&B into 35 fivestar rooms. They’ve even produced their own gin, DunGin, made with botanicals selected by Shirley from Edinburgh’s Secret Herb Garden. It’s one of some 30 Scottish gins on offer at their bar, and they even offer a range of Gin Tasting Experiences to guests and visitors.

Also now producing their own gin is Edinburgh’s famous Balmoral Hotel. The gin, called Baile Mhoireil – Gaelic for “majestic dwelling” – is available exclusively from the hotel. For those visitors seeking something more traditionally Scottish, the hotel has also recently launched a new bar called SCOTCH, and it’s an impressive space. Relaxed, luxurious, compact, with an impressive array of bottles, from the privately owned – “there are 35 keeps,” explains the hotel’s Food & Beverage Director Gary Quinn, “so you can keep a bottle here, you get a key” – to the generally available. “If you’ve never tried whisky before,” says Gary, “the team here are very good at putting people on the right track. There is a whisky for you – you just haven’t found it yet.”

As is often the case in Edinburgh, our conversation on whisky slips into discussing food – that celebrated local larder is front and centre here – and then to golf. They’re all, as Gary explains, part of Scotland’s unique appeal, things that couldn’t have evolved without this terrain, coastline or weather.

“When you see those links course…” Gary laughs. “I mean, a 30mph wind on the East Coast means it’s a nice day! They’re not the longest of courses but you’re not just playing the course, you’re playing the elements. They’re unforgiving but ask any pro or midhandicapper where they want to play and they’ll say Scotland.

“And if you have a great game, you come back and celebrate. If you have a bad game, you’ve got the food and drink of Scotland to soothe and drown your sorrows in. It’s all good.”