Golf City Guide #3 Stockholm
A dynamic city that’s also an archipelago with dramatic natural vistas on the doorstep: Sweden’s capital unites laid-back Scandi-living, historical heritage, a pioneering culinary scene with some of the region’s finest golf tracks.
Stretching across some 30,000 islands and islets, Stockholm’s archipelago is where ancient forests meet the brackish Baltic Sea. Dating back to the late 13th-century, Stockholm is steadfast in tradition yet cutting edge in contemporary design. It may feel small in scale but it’s momentous in experiences; with 14 main islands, crisscrossed with 57 bridges, plus seven central districts – there’s plenty to explore in this unspoilt Nordic city.
Bordered by rocky green landscapes, fresh lakes and towering trees, island hopping through crystal-clear waters and hiking the close by national parks only adds to the back-to-nature appeal here. Meanwhile in the centre, there’s a wealth of activities to fill your diaries with in-between rounds of first-class golf, from galleries and museums to medieval architecture. Starting in the historic Old Town of Gamla Stan – the oldest part of Stockholm and one of the best-preserved medieval squares in the world – wander the cobbled streets and spot the historic landmarks of Kungliga Slottet (the 18th-century Royal Palace) and Stockholm’s Cathedral. Hop to nearby Djurgården for a litany of museums including Vasa Museum, which houses the rescued wreckage of a 1600s war ship. The trendy district of Södermalm is bustling with bars, boutiques and cafes and also home to the Fotomuseum (one of the world’s largest photography museums) and in Östermalm, there’s elevated restaurants and culinary hangout spots to satisfy any appetite. Art-lovers should pitstop at Skeppsholmen and take in the vast collections at the National Museum and Moderna Museet, while the cultural hub of Vasastan has plenty of under-the-radar eateries and local favourite hangouts.
For more relaxed days, head to the waterfront, and against a backdrop of colourful houses and gothic church spires, embrace Stockholm’s thriving cafe culture with fika – a cherished tradition of sharing coffee and cake with loved ones. And if time is on your side, Birka – a Viking archaeological site and UNESCO-listed spot – is well worth a trip, as are the lesser-visited castles and palaces of Gripsholm, Skokloster and Ulriksdal.
The golf
Dubbed as one of Europe’s best-kept golfing secrets, Stockholm is the epicentre of Sweden’s top golf courses. With clubs dating back to the early 20th-century, high-quality golf has long gone hand-in-hand with the city. Now boasting over 50 courses that combine city culture with the great outdoors, Stockholm has established itself as an impressive destination for any golf traveller. You’ll want to tee up at three courses leading the way: Bro Hof Slott Golf Club , Ullna Golf and Country Club and Österåkers Golf Club.
Bro Hof Slott Golf Club
Set on the banks of Lake Mälaren and wrapping around Bro Hof Castle, the prestigious Bro Hof Slott Golf Club has two world-class courses that demand precision, strategy and accuracy (plus a good deal of nerve). The Stadium Course plays host to Scandinavian Masters and is a fine example of modern architect from Robert Trent Jones Jr. It was crowned the country’s best course just months after opening, while The Castle Course winds through forest with its fair share of undulating fairways, tough bunkers and water features. Both courses are a testament to Stockholm’s reputable golfing scene.
Ullna Golf and Country Club
Acclaimed Ullna Golf and Country Club’s course is also guaranteed to be a test. A short trek out of the city centre, this richly rewarding course has manicured fairways, gently rolling greens and one cleverly strategic hazard per hole. Popular with locals and travellers alike, the tight layout was originally crafted in the 1980s by legendary Sven Tumba before being overhauled by Jack Nicklaus.
Österåker Golf Club
Seeking another challenge? Top-ranked Österåker Golf Club is one of the largest golf facilities in Sweden with two 18-hole, moorland courses and a state-of-the-art driving range. With plenty of risk and reward elements to be expected during your round, Västerled is a difficult championship course while its sister course Österled, is slightly more forgiving but still highly technical.
Food and drink
It’s little surprise that Stockholm’s cuisine takes advantage of the superlative produce from the surrounding land and sea. Famed for chunky, succulent köttbullar (meatballs), bold inlagd sill (pickled herrings) and rimmat fläsk (salted pork), a deeper dive showcases an exciting culinary hub underpinned by sustainability, innovation and a hearty café culture that loves a good cinnamon bun.
Image © Östermalm Market Hall
Image © Sturehof
For an introduction of what’s on offer, make a beeline for Östermalm Market Hall. Housed in a beautiful brick building and in operation since 1888, stalls are overflowing with fresh fish, meat, sweets and traditional delicacies. From there, join a local expert on a Nordic Food Walk to uncover Stockholm’s gastronomic hotspots – with plenty of sampling en route.
Seafood forms the foundation of Stockholm’s dining scene, with a rich larder of salmon, trout, shrimp and herrings plucked straight from Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. Recipes such as gravlax (dill-cured salmon) have remained unchanged for hundreds of years and smoked fish would be amiss on any smörgåsbordtable. Those in-the-know go to Sturehof fish restaurant for traditional toast Skagen (open sandwiches) topped with shrimp, sour cream, chopped onion, roe and washed down with ice-cold beer.
Image © Frantzèn
A key player in the New Nordic movement, Stockholm is awash with talented chefs and noteworthy restaurants that highlight Sweden’s flavour-forward, season-led approach to cooking. At the fore of Stockholm’s esteemed restaurants is Frantzèn, the city’s only three-Michelin-starred haunt, while Michelin Restaurant Ekstedt plays with fire, cooking up charcoal scallops and juniper smoked venison over the open-flames.
Image © Frantzèn
Image © Spesso
For a dinner with a view, The Veranda inside the Grand Hotel overlooks the picturesque waterfront or for panoramic vistas of the entire city, head to Spesso, a rooftop favourite set next to the nordiska kompaniet.
Explore Södermalm and Vasastan for hidden gems like Babette, a pizzeria prized for its ever-changing wine menu and Tjoget, a rustic site serving small plates, world-class beer and award-wining cocktails. And for one of the city’s most-talked about bistro, Mathias Dahlgren’s Matbaren in the Grand Hotel has a Swedish twist on comforting classics and a comprehensive wine cellar.
Anything else?
Stockholm is one of the few cities where you can walk under the shade of age-old pines, kayak into the open waters and cool off in the icy lakes – and you don’t need to travel far for an adventure. In the greater Stockholm area, there’s almost 300 nature reserves, two national parks and countless lakes to uncover. Taking advantage of the abundance of natural beauty on the city’s doorstep is best done via the water. Schedule some time off-shore and paddle, sail and kayak through the network of idyllic waterways that make up the archipelago to discover pretty villages, stunning scenery and wildlife encounters.
