Golf City Guide #5 Marrakech
From evocative souks and world-famous medina to leafy enclaves and intricate Moorish architecture, mysterious Marrakech has eternal appeal, with both historic and modern golf courses to enhance the city’s offerings.
Just under a four-hour flight from London lies the vibrant, cultural hub of Marrakech. A gateway to the Agafay Desert dunes at the foothills of the imposing, snow-capped Atlas Mountains, the city was a significant trading spot during the Berber era. Founded in 1062 under the Almoravid Dynasty, the iconic red walls – from which it earned it nickname ‘Red City’ – were first laid out, and today the electric energy of Marrakech is still awash with colourful craftmanship, historic landmarks, fragrant street food and of course, great golf.
Start in the city’s core – the age-old medina quarter – and spend the morning getting lost in the bustling souks. Here, you’ll find plenty to bring home from stacks of pottery to piles of fire-coloured spices and heavy shelves groaning under the weight of jewellery, textiles and lanterns. Make your way down the dusty, ancient alleyways to Mechoui for a street food lunch of slow-roasted lamb, cooked in lashings of cumin, salt and harissa and then into the iconic Jemaa el-Fnaa square.
A UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site, this central marketplace plays host to a whole cast of characters from snake charmers, magicians, story-tellers and performers. Ever a city of contrast, Marrakech offers clashing colours, jam-packed market stalls and creative craftmanship but is also home to numerous blossom-scented gardens and traditional riads – many come with plunge pools in the centre of botanical-filled courtyards. No matter the itinerary, Marrakech is an enriching experience and the beating heart of Moroccan culture.
Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech
The golf
Marrakech should not be overlooked for its rich golfing offerings. Twenty minutes out of the centre is Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech, a country club-style oasis with spacious suites, manicured lawns and a2,000 sq m swimming pool – not to mention a superior golf course on-site. One of Cabell Robinson’s finest designs, the man behind 2023 the Solheim Cup course Finca Cortesín, the immaculate 18-hole course is not only framed by views of the Atlas Mountains but covers 75 hectares of gentle rolling greens, tropical palm trees, five lakes and regularly makes the top of Africa’s golf lists.
Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech
A crop of new courses have popped up in Marrakech in recent years, but Royal Club Marrakech is accredited as the oldest, and has a prestigious heritage too. Established in 1927, the original course is a 9-hole affair that was remodelled by French professional Arnaud Massy in 1993. Known as the ‘Old Course’, this palm and olive tree-lined track was a firm favourite of the former Moroccan king, Hassan II, and other famous players include Winston Churchill and Dwight D. Eisenhower. The historic section was later modernised with the addition of the 9-hole, par-36 Menara course, with Gery Watine and Thierry Sprecher at the design helm.
Royal Club Marrakech
Since opening in 2014, Assoufid Golf Course has picked up numerous awards and is often touted as one of the best to play in Marrakech. Winding its way through desert terrain, Scottish professional and former European Tour player Niall Cameron has created a course with fairways that seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscapes.
Assoufid Golf Course
Those looking for a stellar golf course further afield should add Bouznika Bay Golf Club to the list too. Some 240 kilometres northeast from Marrakech is the coastal city of Casablanca, and a little further north still you’ll find the Bouznika Bay Club, overlooking a stretch of unspoilt, golden sand beach. From the mastermind of Robert Von Hagge, this technical and hilly course is 9-hole and par-35. Featuring the designer’s signature – three bunkers in the shape of a clover – which is worth the journey alone but the chance to play at nightfall against the gentle waves of the Atlantic waves is another winning element.
Bouznika Bay Golf Club
Food and drink
The fusion of Arab, Berber and African culture is maybe best envisioned in the city’s cuisine. One needs only to wander through the souks for a glimpse of ingredients on offer: mountains of olives, sticky dates, dried figs and lacey saffron, plus baskets of neat rose buds, rolled cinnamon sticks, bunches of fresh mint and of course, an array of spices. The blend of ras el hanout is emblematic of Moroccan cooking and harissa also lends a spicy kick to warming beef and lamb tagine stews simmered in traditional pots that can be sampled across the city.
© El Fenn
After sundown, Jemaa el-Fnaa bursts with flavour as hawkers cook flame-grilled keftas and fluffy couscous for the growing crowds. Around the corner is El Fenn, a hotel, restaurant and rooftop bar where fresh salads, hearty lentils and saffron-marinated lobster are best savoured with a cool glass of Moroccan gris.
© El Fenn
© El Fenn
Head to L’Mida for a meze of cooling feta salads, smoked zaalouk, kefta meatballs dipped in a yoghurt and mint dip, and crispy lentil croquettes. For an authentic dive into Moroccan gastronomy, try Ksar El Hamra with outdoor dining that encircles a babbling fountain and go to Le Douar for slow-cooked lamb tagine with dates and almonds, followed by chakhchoukha with milk and orange blossom.
© Le Tanjia
Another rooftop hit is Le Tanjia, with far-reaching city views, mixed grill plates and classic cocktails done well, it’s a sought-after evening spot. And you can’t leave Marrakech without sipping sweet mint tea paired with pistachio pastries drenched in sticky sweet syrup.
© Fondation Jardin Majorelle / Photo Nicolas Mathéus
Attractions
From the stunning archways and traditional architecture dotted throughout the city, to the layers of rich culture omnipresent, Marrakech has long been a draw for creative types. One of the most notable is designer, Yves Saint Laurent who first fell for the city in the 1960s, describing it as “paradise”. Now, the museum dedicated to his namesake is one of the most visited attractions in Marrakech.
© Fondation Jardin Majorelle / Photo Nicolas Mathéus | Yves Saint Laurent, Place Djemaa El Fna © Reginald Gray
Next door, you’ll find the bright haven of Majorelle Garden, it’s striking cobalt, mustard hues and prickly cacti unanimous with the city. Founded in 1931, globetrotter and French painter Jacques Majorelle used the plot as a studio turned nursery for his 300 species of plants, while the on-site museum (Musée Berbère Jardin Majorelle) pays homage to Berber culture, showcasing costumes, craftwork, jewels and musical instruments. Another must-see garden is Le Jardin Secret, an inner-city oasis and restored 19th-century palace with traditional Islamic features.
© Fondation Jardin Majorelle
© Fondation Jardin Majorelle
Elsewhere, allow ample time to take in the museums, palaces and mosques, which are architectural marvels in their own right. Take Ben Youssef Madrasa, an important monument with exemplary displays of Moroccan architectural details, nestled in the heart of the old medina with the neighbouring Ben Youssef Mosque, considered to be the oldest in Marrakech.
History lovers should flock to the 12th-century city gate of Bab Agnaou, age-old ruins of El Badi Palace and the Saasian Tombs – the royal necropolis for the dynasty which sits next to the Kasbah Mosque. Finally, a Red City getaway would be incomplete without a visit to Bahia Palace and the Marrakech Museum, the latter boasting a diverse collection of impressive Moroccan art from the 19th century to present.